Baturyn for tourists

Baturyn is located about 170 km to the north form Kyiv. Baturyn is a historic town that struggled a lot many centuries ago for the independence of Ukraine and ended up paying a horrible price. It is located in Chernihiv Oblast, on the south bank of the Seim River, in northern Ukraine. Baturyn is around 180 kilometers away from the city of Kiev. It’s a must-see village for tourists, because it unfolds many historic events that took place a few hundred years ago.

In XVII century, when the hetmans headed Ukraine, Baturyn was their residence. The four famous hetmans of Left-Bank Ukraine were: Demyan Mnogogrishniv, Ivan Samoylovych, Ivan Mazepa (1669-1708) and the last Ukrainian hetman Kyrylo Rozumovsky (1750-1764).

Ivan Mazepa commissioned many churches and constructed the large, seven-domed brick Holy Trinity Cathedral in 1692, Saint Nicholas’s Church in 1696-1698 and 4 wooden churches in Baturyn. The city thrived under his rule. It increased in size as well as population and boasted around 20,000 residents. It had 40 churches and chapels, 2 monasteries as well as a college.

In October 1708, Mazepa and his troops sided with the Swedish King Charles XII and supported the war against Russia. He turned against the Russian Emperor Peter I even though he had a good relationship with the King. On October 29, 1708, field marshal Alexander Menshikov was ordered to annihilate the hetman capital. On November 1, the Russian army came to the fortress. On November 2, a traitor, Col. Ivan Nis, led the invaders thorough a secret passageway into the fortress and this is when Baturyn fell. The Russian army slaughtered men, women and children without showing any mercy at all. Around 7000 soldiers, who were defending the town, were brutally killed. Almost an equal number of residents were killed as well. The town was robbed and totally ruined. According to historians, between 11000 and 14000 people were killed that day. It was undoubtedly the saddest day in the history of Baturyn and Ukraine.

There are many historic places in Baturyn and Rozumovsky Palace is one of them. The last hetman, Kyrylo Rozumovsky, rebuilt the town and hired an architect to build him a palace. It was originally designed by Andrey Kvasov in the Baroque style and later it was rebuilt by the Scottish architect Charles Cameron in the neoclassical style in 1799-1803.

A monument was built in 2004 in remembrance of the victims of the 1708 massacre. You will also see Baturyn Fortress, the Resurrection Church, the Kochubei residence that has the General Court Hall Museum and many other great historical places.

Baturyn has several beautiful landscapes along with all those amazing sites. When you visit the town, it will take you several hours to see the entire city. You will certainly have a great time when you explore this amazing city.

Baturyn fortress

Citadel walls

Razumovskyi palace in Baturyn

Inside the citadel

Kochubey building in Baturyn

Razumovskyi palace in Baturyn - main building

Travel to Kachanivka national park near Kiev.

 That's a good idea for restless vagabonds to spend one day on Kachanivka national park whilst staying in Kiev.  It lays just in 2 hours driving to north-east towards Sumy. To be mentioned, final 30 kilometers of road are in terrible condition even for Ukraine standards and full of potholes and grooves. But the goal worth all the efforts spent.
Kachanivka palace was founded almost 300 years ago for Russian governor of Ukraine - at that time Ukraine was treated like autonomous territory with fair share of independence. Later this country seat was purchased by earl Tarnavsky who put a lot of efforts and funds to create here one of renown cultural centers of Ukraine. Almost all famous ukrainian  artists, poets and musicians
lived and worked here enjoying gorgeous nature, tranquility and hearty earl's hospitality.
The focal point of Kachanivka park is old and picturesque 18th century palace proudly standing over the lake shore among age-old oaks and chestnuts.
Two-storey palace building is decorated with small towers and balconies, there are two rear outbuildings in one of which works local hotel. Definitely, it is not the luxury one, but prices correspond  the quality and old-soviet style - 1 night costs approximately 10 USD. Palace is open for visitors and features art exhibitions along with restored old-world interiors, nobiliary furniture and houseware.
Another attraction of this place is national park around the palace with renovated walkways, belvederes, park bridges and even small lake enbankment where bouts and katamarans can be hired.
Central alley leads to small beautiful orthodox church. If coming to Kachanivka on weekend, you will meet a lot of tourists strolling around the park from all corners of Ukraine, fishermen and avto tourists from Kiev.
This trip will not only entertain you but also reveal another beautiful corner of Ukraine, full of history, legends and myths.

Bukskyi Canyon

Sofiivka park in Uman' is well known in Ukraine and overseas place, quite interesting for tourists. And it is hard to believe there is one more natural wonder of Ukraine located nearby the Uman' - less then in 20 kilometers and still remaining unknown to the majority of  tourists. This is Bukskyi Canyon with river Horskyi Tikych waterfall. The Canyon got its name  from a  small village Buky vere it originates from. Everyone is impressed encountering steep granite rocks among pacific ukrainian meadows and green forests.
Canyon's length is about 5 kilometers and this is one of the most breathtaking places in Ukraine indeed. High granite cliffs, deep precipices with streaming river in the middle between craggy banks. Here you can find deep well with cold pure water. Exploring this canyon can easily take 4-5 hours. Not a lot of tourists are coming here, this place is almost unknown for traveling Ukrainians, not to mention foreign tourists. In general, visiting Bukskyi Canyon surely catch your eye and will accomplish and complement your travel to Uman'.
Just one thing to add: making beeline to Bukskyi Canyon plan your route through Man'kivka (another village nearby) - it is not the shortest path but with more or less quality roads .
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Bukskyi Canyon

Remains of old building

Canyon in late fall.

The tree breaks through the stone

Well with pure cold water

Bukskyi Canyon in summer

Ruins of Korets castle

On the middle way from Kyiv to Lviv we came across opportunity to visit one unusual but quite picturesque place - Korets.
Korets is small town, the center of Korets district, with faceless chaotic village development typical for Ukraine. However, unique lineaments of nature and still existing due to miracle
remains of historical castle can be the point of concern and a tourist attraction. On this place local river Korchyk is bending the hill leaving high cliffs. And this is the place where Korets
castle was built in 14th century. Archaeologists say that right on this hill was ancient slavic town destroyed by mongol invaders.
Korets castle evolved from well-fortified fortress of Middle-Ages to  luxurious palace in 19th century.But accident fire demolished the palace on 1831 and owner did not
have enough money to recover building, wich is staying abandoned over 150 yars, serving as source of stone material for local peasants. Now castle is only huge brick ruins with amazing bridge and one tower partially existing.But even these pint-sized particles of history are very romantic and gorgeous.
Also Korets is know as the residence place of Natalia Honcharova - women Pushkin fell in love with and wanted to marry her. But her family objected and imposed her french diplomat. Natalia lived here a long period after returning from France and bequeathed all her estate to Korets women's monastery.

vegetation around the castle

castle bridge with gate tower

view over the river Korchyk

what remained from defensive walls

Sofiivsky park, Uman

On the half way from Kyiv to Odessa situated Uman - typical tiny Ukrainian provincial city, famous throughout the world mainly just for two things: the grave  of Rebbe Nachman of Breslov, the founder of Hasidic movement (this grave attracts thousands jewish pilgrims yearly) and Sofiivsky dendropark established by order of Count Pototsky and dedicated to his wife Sofia. Here we concentrate our attention on park exploration only, as soon as this wonderful place worth being among the best Ukrainian miracles. They started building of Sofiivka in 1796th but such a grandiose project is not possible to complete during the life of only one generation. Major works continued about 150 years, thousands of people were engaged. Just to mention that each Russia Emperor visited this park and funded the continuation of works. And this process is still on.
A lot of human efforts were spent to transform originally beautiful corner of nature into a fantastic artificial park. Everything is present: rocks, lakes, waterfalls, caves, forests and meadows, generously decorated with antic sculptures, bridges and pavilions. Even underground river called Akheront in honor of Greek myth river. Tourists are invited to join a boat tour along Uman's Akheront.
One thing more to add: it is better to visit Sofiivsky park during a week but not on weekend since a number of excursions are coming around and crowds of people can disturb you while  enjoying all the splendor of this magnificent park.
You will be fascinated by walking in Sofiivka and surely spend here about 3-4 hours.

Lake with boats

Lake with swans

The heart of Sofiivsky park

Waterfall

Cave in Sofiivka park where you can make a wish

Berdychiv - old Jewish settlement

This small and not conspicuous at first glance town is located on the road from Kyiv to Kamianets-Podilsky.  Long period it was renowned as jewish center on Western Ukraine. However, now almost nothing except old jewish cemetery reminds us about this. The main noteworthy of Berdychiv is its catholic fortress-monastery on the hill above the lake and river called Hnylopiat', built on 17th century and been besieged numerous times. Also each Berdychiv inhabitant will tell you the story about Balzac (french novelist) been merried here in local church - it is true. 

After wedding a tailor  approached to Balzac, carefully reviewed his suite and asked: where did ou get such a nice suite?

-in Paris

-Where is Paris?

- 2000 miles from here

- Amazing! Such a long distance but they know how to sew nice suites.

  The fortress is quite picturescue as well as the nature around and it's the single attraction of Berdichiv. About 100 years ago, the border between Russia Empire and Austria layed near Berdychiv  so this town also was known because of its resourceful smugglers. This page of history is far away now but archaeologists report about numerous multi-miles smuggler underground passages and corridors towards former border.

entrance to the fortress

The church inside of fortress, where Balsac had his wedding

view from the lake shore

buildings indide the fortress walls

old jewish cemetery in Berdychiv

typical building of Berdychiv center

Coming to Kyiv

Almost 100% of western tourists are coming to Ukraine through Kyiv (Kiev) and spend a couple of days there strolling around and even making beeline to Prypiat (Chernobyl). Wide range of hotels are offering accommodation in the center but prices are quite high. This one-bedroom apartment costed us 110 USD (the same hotel suite was at least 3 times more expensive) We rented this apartment in Kiev from Grata agency and recommend to everyone.